Monthly Archives: October 2011

We had an elegant and thrilling sail from Stanley to South Georgia, so inevitably we’re encountering the reverse on the way home. The wind’s coming from the west, 35+ knots of it, and we’re beating into it under engine power. … Continue reading →

Very short post. We are having some heavy Southern Ocean weather. Last night on our 9pm to midnight stint we knew there was ice about because the retiring watch had warned us.  The visibility was poor, only a few hundred … Continue reading →

We left our Rosita anchorage at noon, and passed along the northern coast of South Georgia in a layered fog. The world is entirely grey – air, water, sky a full 8 eighths, as the log says. Between two horizontal … Continue reading →

I have a couple of knowledgeable bird-y friends  (Hello Seb! Jane M!*) who will attest that I do not know a crow from a chaffinch. But I think even they would be pleased with today’s tick. We left Grytviken and … Continue reading →

We have seen a lot of them. But first, here is Tom Carrell’s report of climbing a real South Georgia peak. Stephen, Gavin and I set off early after Martin had risen even earlier, concerned that we shouldn’t set off … Continue reading →

We were at anchor overnight in Ocean Harbour, a few hundred yards from the melancholy wreck of the Bayard, heeled over as she has been since she was wrecked a hundred years ago.  The shore here is seamed red with … Continue reading →

We sailed round yesterday afternoon to Royal Bay and went ashore in the dinghy for a walk. Elephant seal cows wallowed in the gritty sand, either about to or having just given birth to this season’s pups. These scraggy black … Continue reading →

After reaching Stromness Bay we sailed straight round here to Grytviken Harbour, where we have been moored for the last three days. The rusting remains of the whaling industry line the shore, there is a Scandinavian church and a rather … Continue reading →

Technically the route isn’t difficult, apart from lowering ten pulks off the Trident and Breakwind Ridges. (Any more of that and you’ll go straight to the Headmaster, Matt Graff). Only a couple of short ascents couldn’t be tackled on skis … Continue reading →

For those who have done the Traverse (and thanks for your messages, however you have picked up this blog), or who know a little about the territory, what follows is the summary. For everyone else I’ll try to describe what … Continue reading →